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Mar 08, 2024 By Dom Gourlay Photography by Coen Bastiaansen (Lead photo) Web Exclusive

Leiden is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe; a cultural hotbed that hosts 13 museums and is renowned for being the European Capitol of Science. Situated just 40 kilometres south of Amsterdam and 20 kilometres north of The Hague - follow the trainline from one destination to the either and Leiden is the ideal stop-off in between. Leiden might be seen as a typical Netherlands university city, but it also boasts some of the most salubrious eating and drinking establishments in Europe, as well as being the birthplace of celebrated artist Rembrandt van Rijn, whose lasting influence can be seen throughout various buildings and pathways in and around the city.

Leiden also plays host to Peel Slowly And See, which just happens to be one of the most carefully curated, independent music and arts festivals on the planet. Taking place over the weekend of Friday 1st and Saturday 2nd March, Peel Slowly And See can also lay claim to being one of the most compact inner city festivals of its kind, with each day’s participating venues situated on the same street. Having initially started back in 2013, Peel Slowly And See has played host to a musically diverse range of artists from all corners of the globe with the likes of Lewsberg, Shortparis, Pip Blom and Kayla Painter among the festival’s past alumni.

So, it goes without saying the 2024 edition boasted an equally impressive list of names, many of them previously unknown to Under the Radar prior to this weekend. But all with their own stories to tell and wares to engage and enrapture us with. Take Friday night’s openers Zwardsick for instance. Hailing from the coastal town of Katwijk, the origins of Zwardsick actually date back four decades with some of its founder members having played experimental post-punk outfit MiMiCri. Which probably explains the large turnout for their early evening set in Resistor, the first night’s main hub and a space that typifies Leiden’s DIY spirit. Playing a set that sits somewhere between Captain Beefheart and Pere Ubu for unpredictably obtuse compositions, Zwardsick provide a welcome introduction to this year’s festivities.

Rwanda-born Hubert Tuyishime is perhaps better known by their alter ego, Porcelain ID. Now based in Antwerp, their exquisite blend of traditional African rhythms and soulful pop has been gaining momentum across Europe in recent months, and its no different this evening. Backed by a full band, Porcelain ID plays soothing, at times enchanting melodies that lure the listener in. The calm before the storm as it were, which is how Columbian psych folk collective Romperayo are best described. Serving up a delightful concoction of rhythmic bliss influenced by the tribal sounds of West Africa and the Caribbean as well as their own backyard, Romperayo are an insatiable bundle of energy that has the whole room throwing shapes which is as good a first day finale as one could have hoped for.

Day two finds Peel Slowly And See in its more customary surroundings of Marktsteeg, which plays host to seven different stages across multiple venues along its narrow street. A series of talks hosted by journalists Richard Foster and Marieke McKenna can be found in the intimate confines of Scheltema Zagerij, one of which includes respected UK writer, broadcaster and musician John Robb discussing his excellent best seller from 2023, ‘The Art Of Darkness: A History Of Goth.’

The main venue is Nobel, which is split into three rooms (Grote Zaal, Lounge, Kleine Zaal) for the purpose of the festival. It’s in the latter of these where Czech Republic trio sinks lift the roof off Kleine Zaal with an explosive performance that puts the “post” prefix in front of numerous genres. Last year’s Born Into This Only To Get Through This was one of 2023’s most incisive long players and with the majority of tonight’s set taken off that record, it’s an honour to finally witness the ferocity of those pieces delivered in the flesh.

Elsewhere, Iranian musician Khorshid Dadbeh is a delight to watch, shredding away on her setar that’s both mesmerising and transcendental. Likewise, Icelandic artist Steinunn Hardardottir aka DJ Flugvél Og Geimskip somehow manages to fuse all things bright, beautiful, whimsical and terrifying into her singular electronic version that’s only disturbed by a fire alarm in the Lounge area out front. While Belgian trio

Use Knife play behind as colourful silhouettes behind a large white sheet which only adds to the mystique of their intensely hyperactive industrial techno.

However, most people are here to celebrate the 45th anniversary of Dutch legends The Ex‘s existence as a band. Indeed, the phrase “legends” is often bandied about far too easily but in this case its thoroughly deserved. Its difficult to think of another band who’ve had the same impact as The Ex over a similar period of time. Forever moving forwards when nostalgia could be the simplest option. Which means tonight’s set consists of 10 entirely new, previously unheard pieces. Each composition showing a completely different side of the band, whether its the opening couplet of “African Beef” and “Monday” which turn the angular post-punk template inside out. Or the simply titled “Kat Sings” which sees drummer Katherina Bornefeld take centre stage, bellowing out politically charged lyrics that evokes Crass at their most potent.

Rolling back the years throughout their hour long set, The Ex provide a timely reminder of why they’ve been held in such high esteem by fans, critics and fellow musicians for decades, whilst whetting the appetite for what the band’s eighteenth studio album might sound like.

As we drift off into the night, one thing’s for certain. Peel Slowly And See has delivered upon it’s promise that nobody leaves the festival without discovering something outside of their regular musical comfort zone.